Install: Camburg Long Travel

Camburg Long Travel Installation Instructions
Write up By: Eric McCarty (RdnkTrk)
2000 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner

Tools Required:
Ratchets
Large Hammer
Normal Hammer
Needle Nose Pliers
Welder (Needed if Running Air bumps or Limit Straps Only) .120" Thick Tabs (Needed if Running Limit Straps Only) Spanner Wrench (Needed to Adjust Coil-Over Only)
Flathead Screwdriver
Brake Bleeding Kit
Jack
Jack Stands
Bottle Jack or Second Jack  

Notes:  

Go to Home Depot, take your new Shock Mount and Limit Straps.

Buy 4 grade 8 bolts that measure properly for the shock mount and 4 for the Limit straps, make sure to get washers and nuts.

Start with the passenger side then move onto the drivers side.

 Optional Parts:

Ball joint Dust Covers : P/N - 43324-39015

King Nut Pins (I killed 4 of these and needed spares, I recommend you get some)

 Install Time:

Approximately 2 Full Days

 Getting Started : Ripping Out the Front Suspension

Jack up the truck and remove your tires, make sure to jack it so that the weight is taken off the suspension, the cross member behind the second skid plate is a good place.

Remove the top three bolts and the bottom bolt on your existing shock/coil-over setup, beware that it may be under load and may "spring" out at you so be careful. Once the bolts are removed you should be able to remove the shock.

Under the hood you will notice that on the passenger side in order to remove the upper control arm bolt you will need to move the airbag sensor and anything else that may be in the way, depending on what your vehicle is equipped with it may be a variety of obstacles, a normal ratchet and sockets should allow you to accomplish this. I would recommend removing the Airbag fuse from the fuse box to ensure you don't mistakenly deploy your airbags.

Once all obstructions are removed, remove the bolt holding your upper control arm bolt on and slowly tap out the upper bolt holding the lower control arm on, It should come out relatively easily, but be patient and tap it out with a screwdriver if you need to.

Before removing the lower control arm you will want to use a marker to mark the grooves in the alignment washers on both the outer and inner washers holding your lower control arm on. There are 4 total with two grooves each.

Unbolt your steering rack as it keeps you from being able to remove the lower control arm bolt, you don't need to remove it from the truck, just unbolt it so you can move it a bit.

Remove the brake line from your brake caliper, unbolt your brake caliper and set it aside. There will be brake fluid leakage, you have to bleed your brakes anyway so don't worry.

Remove your Steering Arm by removing the pin and Slowly removing the King nut and tapping it out, DON'T HIT THE BOLT or the thread will get jacked, also make sure it comes out straight or the threads will be jacked.

Unbolt your lower control arm using normal sockets and remove the entire upper/lower/spindle assembly from your truck. Make sure to note which bolts/washers go to which side of the Lower Arm.

Use the Needle Nose/Screwdriver to remove the pin from the upper arm, then SLOWLY unbolt the King Nut, I say slowly due to the fact that stripping this bolt will mess up your day, be careful!.

Once the Upper Arm Nut is off you will need to hit the A-Arm on the Side until it dislodges from the ball joint, DO NOT HIT THE BALL JOINT BOLT, this will mess up the thread, which again, is bad. Be forceful and you will need to hit it hard but it will just pop right out when you do it right.

Repeat Process for Lower Control Arm, Again, don't mess up the ball joint.

Once you have the A-Arms removed from the spindle you can replace the dust boots on the upper ball joint if you want, I've never killed the lower so you shouldn't need to replace it.

Find the Camburg Lower control Arm labeled "Right", slide the spacers into the uniball on the Arm, Tap the Arm into place and install the Old Bolts the same way they came out ensuring the alignment washers match where your marks are, if you don't get it perfect, no biggie you will need an alignment anyway. Try to get it close.

Once the lower A-Arm is on, you can now weld up a mount for your limit straps and take whatever measurements you need to limit your travel as desired, I found that mounting your tab with the Upper Strap bolt hole approximately 2.5 - 3.5" under the frame works great.

Don't be ghetto, paint your tab and wait for it to dry, don't install you limit straps yet.

Your Shock should be pre-adjusted for ride height, adjust it if you like as its a pain to adjust it later, I would recommend not messing with it.

Bolt the Shock to the new Upper Mount using one your new bolts.

Install the new upper Shock Mount (Labeled Right) into the upper bucket using the supplied bolts/washers.

Bolt the Shock to the Lower Control Arm, Use a bottle Jack or Second Jack to raise up the arm, bolt on your limit straps.

Grease and install the new bushings into your new Upper Control Arm and install it using the stock bolt, be aware the washers are a pain to get in properly and if they don't fit you can use thinner ones if you have them, DO NOT install it without washers. Make sure to be careful of the brake lines and unbolt them from the frame if you need to. I installed the bolt the reverse way it came out, it works fine and is easier, if this is not kosher let me know.

Note: I assume you know how your going to mount your reservoir, if not I would suggest welding a 6" Piece of 1.5"x.120 tubing pointing almost straight up on your frame near where the barcode sticker is, and turning the 90 degree fitting to allow the reservoir line to go up and over the upper arm. The mount the reservoir to your tubing.

Slowly turn the outer nut on the 90 degree fitting where your reservoir mounts to allow your reservoir line and reservoir to go through the upper a-arm and over it (like an upside down U). Go slow as it may leak oil, make sure to tighten it back up afterwards.

Once the reservoir is out of the way, you can take your spindle assembly and lower it into the lower A-Arm. SLOWLY bolt back the King Nut for the Lower A-Arm and install the Pin.

Place the ball joint bolt into the hole in the Upper Arm and SLOWLY bolt back up the King Nut, using a hammer, bend your Pin to allow for it to slide into the Hole in the bolt at an angle, then tap it in using a hammer and screwdriver.

Re-Install the brake caliper.

Unscrew the Steering Arm, install the steering extension but don't install the arm into the Spindle Yet.

Leave your tire off as you will need to adjust your steering later.

Driver Side

Follow the Same instructions with the following differences.

Prior to removing the upper Arm bolt you may need to move your radiator overflow canister.

When Removing the Upper A-Arm bolt, you may need to move the brake lines by removing the one bolt holding them to the frame and pushing them out of the way.

All your parts should be labeled "left" instead of right

Final Steps

Install your new brake lines and bleed your brakes, secure your brake lines using zip ties to keep them away from everything but allowing them to travel with your suspension

Re-Install anything your loosened or removed under your hood and re-install the Airbag Fuse if you removed it. 

Install your air bumps. 

Ensure your reservoir is mounted so it doesn't hit anything. 

Adjust your steering by putting your wheels "Straight" and adjusting the steering extension as needed and re-installing it into the spindle. 

Tighten down all the bolts again. 

Re-install your tires.